I've had the new Pioneer mini-split HVAC sitting around the office for some time. I finally got started on the install a few weekends ago. I won't claim to be fast but progress is slowly made each weekend - a bit like watching a 3-toed sloth run.
[2022/06/17 update] Been done for a while but just posting more pictures now.
Below is how final inside install looks:
Here is the wireless remote which works fine.
The mostly completed outside install looks like this. I still have to put the cover on at the point where everything comes out of the wall (note that condensate drain will exit a hole I added to the cover here as well - can't really have the drain going uphill). I also have some more painting needed for the trim but functionally everything is complete.
The outside unit is extremely quiet. I've got the lines wrapped in the teflon tape here.
For the install process - first I installed the interior bracket and started the hole through the drywall for the refrigerant lines, power and control lines going to the outdoor unit. Note that I'm not using a cordless drill and it is actually a decently powerful corded drill with a masonry bit. Don't use cheap bits or common cordless drills with masonry bits unless you want to finish the work with much more gray hair than you started with. Some will likely note that I haven't finished the trim around the ceiling yet either - I'd hate to run out of projects to work on..
Now I was able to hook the provided power/control cable to the interior unit in preparation for mounting it on the wall.
Somehow I ended up with a fused disconnect box instead of non-fused but after a bit of thought, I decided it is more help than harm other than needing fuses.
The disconnect box itself had no information on it and I had thrown away the box it came in so it wasn't clear what fuses were needed. After trying some class G fuses which were just a bit too small in diameter (but Lowes had in stock), I did some more research and determined that the fuse holders were for class H fuses. This is a pretty good site to research fuses dimensions and such - and their glossary has info about the different fuse classes. I also found that several other fuses are usable in the old style class H fuse holders. The class H fuses are not generally recommended now from information I found so I decided that since this unit has some potentially sensitive electronics, I might as well go with the newer class RK1 fuses appear to provide better protection. Fuse prices are all over the place so it took some research to find some online through Amazon that were not twice as expensive as the same items elsewhere. I even found some with free shipping - we'll see how good the idea was when they arrive. The fuses I chose are: LTTELFUSE LLNRK-15 TIME DELAY 15 AMP RK-1 DUAL LIMITING [2022/4/1] Fuses arrived and inserted into holder - more work needed before testing though.
Below, The item on the left is a class G fuse and is 1-5/16" x 7/16". The middle item is called a midget fuse (or class 5AG) and is 1-1/2” x 13/32”. The item on the right is a class RK1 fuse and is 2" x 9/16". Don't get con-fused and try to use the physically smaller fuses in place of those that are of the class H/RK1 size - the smaller fuses will basically fall down if fully inserted into an H/R class fuse holder.
I must admit that I am glad the wiring is at least run in the attic now. I can't say that I enjoy hanging out in the attic - by time I was done I had bruises and scrapes everywhere. I'm thinking that the one major benefit for older electricians would be having an apprentice. I just don't know why my kids won't be "unpaid apprentices" for me. Hard to imagine.
I still need to go back into the attic and add some conduit straps but I don't think I will have to be as far into the eve as when pulling the conduit up. [2022/4/3 Conduit straps done in attic!!]
Next, I need to run the refrigerant lines and such from the exterior hole in the wall over a window and then down to the exterior unit. I did buy a trim kit from Pioneer which I hope will make it look a bit nicer. It is white plastic which I might end up painting to match a bit better. I had a bit of dilemma with the condensate drain line though - it needs to maintain a downward slope to let gravity drain it and I would need to go up over the window though. After discussing with my wife, I'm going to try and exit the PVC cover over the exterior hole in a direction away from the light fixture below and just end the drain line at the "relatively" small hole. I'll foam around it a bit I think. All other solutions seemed worse - taking all the lines/electrical down past the light fixture and under the window would work but seemed like it would be even less visually appealing. Taking the drain line straight down after exiting the wall would mean I either leave an ugly drain line exposed or need to hack together some type of cover which splits into the horizontal and vertical runs. The run going over the window still won't be "pretty" but is probably the best of the more feasible ideas.
[2022/06/17 update] This has been done for a little while now but here are additional pictures showing the more important and/or specialty tools/equipment/etc I used.
Corded drill with decent power - handle for added support / leverage is helpful. I have this for a number of years.
Joshua 1:9 Be strong and courageous; do not be frightened or dismayed, for the Lord your God is with you wherever you go.
This is true even when you cut a hole in the soffit in the wrong location initially or cut your conduit with the wires inside it when you didn't plan to.
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