VStrom DL650 - new pads and stainless steel brake lines

At my last safety inspection, I was told that the rear brake pads were getting a little thin and that I should consider replacing them soon.  The motor cycle is a 2006 and I had not changed the brake fluid or replaced the brake lines as of yet so this seemed like a good opportunity.

Here is the rear brake line - comes with the banjo bolts and copper washers and an installation DVD.

Here are the front brake lines.  I went for the 2 full line version instead of OEM.  A full line goes from the master cylinder to each front brake cylinder.  There is a double banjo for the master cylinder. No particular reason behind choosing the full 2 line kit - just want I found first.  I did buy the optional twin banjo with bleeder but have not installed it. 

Here are the new brake pads.  I went with upgraded front pads and OEM equivalent rear pads.  I did have some reasoning behind these which was driven by some advice on a VStrom related site.  Since the rear provides comparatively little brake power compared to the front brakes - I didn't want to promote locking up the rear so a normal set of pads was a logical choice.  I do feel that a bit more brake power at the front would be useful so I went with a minor upgrade but didn't want to get something which would wear through the rotors excessively fast.

Here is the left front line (and pads) installed.  Not much to look at but I feel a bit safer now that the old lines are gone.

Here is the rear line installed.

Here are the lines at the master cylinder.

This was my first motorcycle brake line replacement ever and first brake maintenance needed on this motorcycle.  I did take about 3 hours to replace all 6 pads and 3 brake lines + fluid.  Some of that was spent scrounging for tools and such.  I ended up using a couple hex wrenches (4 & 5mm I think), 3 or 4 socket sizes (broke a 14mm socket - not a quality item), flat blade screw driver, phillips screw driver, 1/4 clear tubing + tiny hose clamp (for bleeding brakes), a torque wrench - I have 2 but one really didn't seem to cut out when needed and I think I am fortunate nothing appears stripped out. 

Be careful routing the hoses. I did reuse some of the rubber grommet like things from the original hoses and existing hardware where possible.  I did use the piece supplied with the kit that attaches to the triple tree.  I faced that clamp piece towards the throttle - I didn't like the outcome when I tried going the other direction with it. 

F150 brake hoses and shocks

Phew.  After about 1 3/4 weekends, finally got the front & rear shocks and front brake lines replaced on the F150.  With around 10 years of accumulated rust, it was a bear getting some of the bolts/nuts off several shocks and one of the brake hoses.  I only had one nut which required more than a blow torch to remove - it was the driver side brake hose where it connects to the hard line.  This was the line which was nearly burst but a rubber jacket was holding the rust somewhat in place (line bulged about 1/2" more in diameter).  After using the torch on it 6 times or so, I finally got out the pneumatic high speed cutter and cut down the center-line of the connection on the soft-hose side.  Once it cut into the threads a bit, it relieved enough stress on the connection that I was able to back the nut/bolt out (carefully since I had already stripped the head and had to file flat edges back on it).  The downside was the need to cut off the connector on the hard line side, replace the connector and flange the tubing.  I had never flanged a tube before.  Fortunately, the parts store had a tool available and some of the replacement hollow bolts.  I ended up making an extra trip because the replacement hoses didn't come with the required copper washers (which I had not noticed on the ones I took off).  After installing without them and seeing the brake fluid spray about 16 inches - it was quickly obvious what was needed.   I may go back and replace the hard lines as well - I want this to last another 5 years without major issues if possible.  I did more research on flaring hard brake lines and I may go back and do them again.  The directions the parts place gave me worked but I want to make sure it totally safe since me and the family travel using this vehicle.

The shocks in general were not very difficult (other than rust issues) but WD40, a torch, lots of effort and too much time got them off without stripping any components or damaging anything.  The Monroe SensaTrak shocks went on quickly.  My only real concern is the shock tower in the front is rusting through.  Trying to justify a welder to myself and wife - this might be a good start in that.  A small hole in the muffler indicates the adventure might continue.

I had read another blog regarding someone having trouble getting the rear shocks in place because they came compressed with a strap which needs to be cut.  Once cut, it would be difficult to get the shock in place.  I solved it by mounting the bottom of the shock and putting a small length of soft tubing on the top rod/nut.  The tube had enough length to go through the shock tower hole.  Once I cut strap binding the shock, the tube provided enough guidance to the shock as it expanded that one rear went into place without assistance and the other only needed a minor nudge.  If I need to do it again, I would probably use a more semi-rigid tube instead of soft tubing but that is what was handy.

Several laps around the neighborhood went successfully.  Truck doesn't seem to lean quite as severe now and the brakes are not mushy.

Thinking about doing the radiator hoses soon and maybe a new battery.  No indications of water pump issues at this point.  With almost 130k miles on it, I think it is holding up fairly well.